Living in Setubal: The Underrated Alternative to Lisbon for Expats
Setubal sits 50km south of Lisbon with half the property prices, the stunning Arrabida Natural Park on its doorstep, and fast rail connections to the capital. Here's why more expats are choosing it.
Every expat priced out of Lisbon eventually looks at the map and asks: where can I get the Portugal lifestyle without the Lisbon price tag? Setubal, sitting 50 kilometres south across the Sado estuary, is increasingly the answer.
What Setubal Actually Is
Setubal (pop. 120,000) is a working port city — historically known for fishing, fish canning, and industry — that has been quietly gentrifying for the past decade. It is the capital of the Setubal district, which includes the stunning Arrabida coastline to the south and the Troia peninsula to the west.
It is emphatically not a tourist town. The old city centre has beautiful 15th-century azulejo churches, a pedestrianised main street, and a waterfront promenade — but you are unlikely to encounter queues of selfie sticks. This is a place where people actually live.
The Numbers
Average property prices in Setubal city: €1,400-1,900/m² — roughly half the Lisbon average. A 100m² apartment in good condition in the historic centre: €150,000-200,000. Rents for a furnished 2-bedroom: €700-950/month.
Compare this to Lisbon's Mouraria or Intendente (the cheapest desirable central neighbourhoods): €3,500-4,500/m² to buy, €1,200-1,600/month to rent for the equivalent property.
Getting to Lisbon
The Fertagus train crosses the 25 de Abril bridge and connects Setubal to Lisbon's Roma-Areeiro station in approximately 55 minutes. Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours, with a monthly commuter pass costing around €75. This is genuinely commutable territory, which is why Setubal has attracted a growing number of Lisbon professionals who work in the city 2-3 days a week.
The Natural Park
The Parque Natural da Arrabida begins practically at Setubal's doorstep — dramatic limestone cliffs, crystal-clear turquoise water, and protected Mediterranean scrub forests. Beaches like Portinho da Arrabida, Galapinhos, and Figuerinha rank among Europe's finest and remain far less crowded than Algarve equivalents.
Practical Considerations
- Healthcare: Hospital de Setubal is a solid regional public hospital. Private care means Lisbon, 55 minutes away.
- Language: English is less widely spoken than in Lisbon. Learning Portuguese is more necessity than option here.
- Schools: No international schools locally — families use Lisbon's international schools, which are accessible but require the commute.
- Services: All standard expat requirements available locally, with generally faster processing times than Lisbon offices.
The Portugal Brief covers Portuguese news and policy for expats and internationals.
